Sarria to Portomarin - day one of walking

Sarria to Portomarin

At our starting point there was a climb through Sarria township which had me already lagging behind taking photos. Luckily I wasn't the only snap happy member of our group.  And this position in our group gave me the beautiful vision of Pink Ladies being carried on women's packs. 

After a day on the bus the day before I was very happy to be out and about and on the way. Having been preparing for this for so long I confess initially I kind felt some anti-climax with our beginning. It was just walking after all. But the scenery we walked through was as varied as it was beautiful and soon my excitement grew. 

There is a phenomenon that happens when I walk in nature. It is as though I am infused with some kind of energy and I feel like a child and want to dance through the fields, hug the trees and sing with the birds. So I was glad that during the 23kms I got to spend a little time to myself. I loved getting to know the women but anyone who knows me knows I need time to commune with my surroundings. 

Looking back now (eight days ago) I struggle to remember the details of the day. My photos tell me that this was the day that Kate and I found ourselves helping a woman who was travelling with her two year old son. She had been walking for 200kms with a 3WD pram made for rough terrain. Apparently not made for the terrain we walked on that day. In the end Kate ended up with the very smelly pooey baby and I ended up with the pram. Just part and parcel of who you meet on the way and the stories you hear. 

The second half of the day I again remained at the back of the group happily taking photos and encouraging others when needed. The stories shared with me this day were humbling and inspiring.

It was an enjoyable day as was the sight of the town as we neared the end of our first day of walking. 

I did think it a little cruel to have a steep set of stairs at the end but we made it and enjoyed a dinner with our Spanish guide at the head of the table.

What I leaned from Sarria to Portomarin - everyone has their reasons for walking el Camino and we can either seek to understand or simply acknowledge that their way may be different.

Sarria - a new beginning

After a long drive through incredible countryside of snow capped mountains, rolling green hills and countless visions of wind turbines, we made it to Sarria where our El Camino journey begins. 

Here we met our local tour guide David. A long-haired, passionate man of the north. 

Already I am impressed that with such a large group we are all mingling and getting along. It is an eclectic collection of personalities and life experiences but I feel that the common thread of having being diagnosed with breast cancer, had someone we know diagnosed with breast cancer or simply a desire to support an organisation that supports those affected, has meant that we have common ground. 

My room afforded me the pleasure of seeing the town shrouded in mist both in the evening, and then in the morning when we were all lacing up our hiking boots, pulling out our trekking poles and deciding how much water to carry. 

We gathered out the front of the hotel after our briefing from David and even the hotel owner wanted to take a photo of the group of women in pink and red. 

What I learned in Sarria - Sarria is where I discovered you can meet someone for the first time and yet feel you have known them all your life.  

Madrid - in the beginning ...

'Travel brings power and love back into your life.' ~ Rumi

I never expected to love Madrid. My expectations were low because for some reason I had only one thought - it's just a big city. Perhaps subconsciously I also feared starting my travels in a big city because my travel muscles were out of practice.

After a good nights rest I headed out into the city and discovered that no only did I love it but that my travel muscles were not gone, but itching to get some use. 

My past method to getting to know a city still stands. Head out, get lost and then find yourself. That would be even more profound if I didn't just naturally get lost in a new place. However, it is a great way to get to know a city's personality rather than its sights. 

With my new friend I met at breakfast, we found ourselves at the botanical gardens. I love gardens. The colours, the design and simply the deeply grounding effect that nature has on me. 

After this we went and sat at a cafe. This is when it really began to sink in that I was in Madrid. That I was in Europe. That I was a traveller again. 

I used the little Spanish I had and learnt a few new words. I discovered that a Spanish tortilla looks nothing like the Mexican one I'm used to and that I love the Spanish language. 

After meeting our group of 32 including the team leaders from Inspired Adventures we ventured out into the city again to find us some dinner. Tapas market sounds like a plan! Time to try some scary looking local delicacy. 

On the second day we toured around Palacio Real. Heard stories that sounded like some Royal version of the bold and the not so beautiful. Then a bus tour around Madrid. But my favourite part of the day was heading off to the Parque de El Retiro - a huge and stunning city park. I made a plan within minutes of arriving that I would return there when I got back to Madrid after our El Camino. 

That night I ventured out on my own and discovered something magical. I walked up to the Templo de Debod to see the oldest building remains in Madrid, and got so much more. I was delighted to hear the colourful pluckings of Spanish guitar and as I moved closer it was clear that they were getting ready for an outdoor concert. Sunset wasn't for a long time (I'm not convinced the sun every goes down in Madrid) so I just walked the gardens, watched the locals walking their dogs and admiring the incredible views. Then the music began ...

Words really can't describe the experience of sitting outdoors on a balmy evening in a foreign country but surrounded by fellow travellers and wonder seekers as the orchestra began to play. Add to this nature's gift of painting the sky orange, yellow and reds. Pure bliss.

Training for the Camino

I've always been a walker but training to walk an average of 23km a day for five days was somewhat daunting. Aside from the sheer physical challenge, there was the time challenge. How was I going to fit in all this training?

Luckily I had a friend who was crazy enough to sign up for the Oxfam trailwalker which is 100km in 48 hours! We supported each other in training and really, she is the one that got me into the habit of training. Before I knew it had a number of 20km plus training walks under my belt.

I've had some issues with my feet throughout the training but with the guidance of a podiatrist, a physiotherapist, my doctor and a few other people making suggestions I have a management plan.

Sportstek spikey massage ball

And some might say I have developed an obsession with the miracle that is the spikey massage ball. Really, I think everyone should have one.

Some unforeseen benefits of my training is that I have discovered new tracks, explored new terrain and as a result it is as if the world is opening up with possibilities. I'm already thinking about my next trekking trip. I'll share some of my newly found hiking tracks in and around Melbourne in other posts, for those that are interested in that sort of thing.

The things I've learned are:

• the magic of the spikey massage ball and why everyone should have one
• the benefits of epsom salts and ice
• stretch, stretch, stretch
• going slowly can get you there faster and in once piece
• how to buy hiking boots - when I never thought I'd choose boots over shoes
• the myriad of ways you can lace hiking boots for the terrain you are walking
• the importance of socks!
• water bladders - what the different kinds are and why you would want one over the other
• choosing the right day pack when travelling with camera gear
• Melbourne has amazingly beautiful hiking tracks within 1.5 hours drive
• always take a head torch when walking a track you haven't walked before
• that anti-inflammatories are my friend
• did I mention the amazing benefits of the spikey massage ball?

 

The walking bit - from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela

Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much ~ Ralph Waldo Emerson

So where am I actually walking? The trek is done over five days and is the final 113km of el camino de Santiago de Compostela. The first day of trekking is Wednesday 18 May.

Day 1: Sarria to Portomarin
Approx. 23km

Day 2: Portomarin to Palas de Rei
Approx. 23km

Day 3: Palas de Rei to Arzua
Approx. 28km (!!!)

Day 4: Arzua to Amenal
Approx 23km

Day 5: Amenal to Santiago de Compostela
Approx. 14km

The maps provided below are almost exactly where we will be walking but the last two are slightly different as the stops are in a different place. I'm sure you can figure it out though. Just click on the map to see a larger size.

Day 1: Sarria to Portomarin

Day 2: Portomarin to Palas de Rei

Day 3: Palas de Rei to Arzua

Day 4: Arzua to Amenal
(though this map only goes to Pedrouzu)

Day 5: Amenal to Santiago
(though this map starts a little earlier)

Where do I begin?

It has been five years since my last trip overseas. I can time it perfectly with the year I bought my house. A mortgage will do that to you.

But this year, the year 2016, an opportunity of a lifetime has resulted in my about to fly to Spain to walk a section of the El Camino. 112km of the El Camino to be exact. I have been in training for a couple of months now and my feet, though sore most of the time, are getting ready to take on this very physical challenge. But am I mentally ready for this adventure?

To travel is to take a journey into yourself ~ Danny Kaye

El Camino - The Way of St. James

A pilgrimage. For some El Camino is a religious pilgrimage, for others it is a spiritual journey within and without with little to do with religious belief or doctrine. Then for others it is purely a physical journey, a journey of endurance.

What is it for me?

My adventures in the United Kingdom

My trip to the UK in 2011 was, to put it mildly, one I will never forget.

My mum and I drove our way around Scotland and down into England. Together we rediscovered places we had visited before, explored new terrain, stepped back in time and met up with old friends.

Mum and I explore Scotland & England

On a country road in the middle
of northern Scotland

For my last 10 days in the UK, mum and I parted ways and I met up with my friend from Australia and a group of fellow seekers to explore the lands and myths of Avalon.

My journey into myth and magic begins in Glastonbury

Chalice Well, Glastonbury